Ģipka Church

“For every house is built by someone, but God is the builder of everything.” (Hebrews 3:4)

Ģipka Church – A Story of Faith and Resilience by the Sea

On the northern coast of Courland (Kurzeme), where the winds of the Baltic Sea meet the silence of pine forests, stands Ģipka Evangelical Lutheran Church – a place that has preserved the faith, perseverance, and hope of generations for more than 150 years. The story of the church, however, began much earlier. Historical records indicate that before the present church was built, at least two wooden churches had already stood in Ģipka. For the people of this coastal village, the church has always been a place of refuge, both in everyday life and in times of hardship.

In 1860, through the patronage of the Osten-Sacken family, owners of the Dundaga Manor, the present stone church was built. It is an impressive building with a massive tower, an apse, and a sacristy, originally providing seating for 350 worshippers. The altarpiece, “Christ on the Cross,” was painted by the artist Schäfer and still occupies its place of honour in the church today.

The church’s first pastor was Augusts Matiass Bernevics, followed by several distinguished clergymen. Among them, Hugo Maksimilians Grīvāns, who was born in Ģipka, is especially remembered. His life became a poignant reflection of Latvia’s turbulent history. During the Second World War, his family fled to Sweden, while he remained in Latvia. He was later arrested several times and deported to Soviet labour camps in Siberia. After his return, he resumed his ministry in Ģipka, never losing his faith or strength of spirit.

During the Soviet occupation, the church tower was used by the Dundaga Forestry Service as a fire observation post. On 1 September 1979, tragedy struck when the church was destroyed by fire, leaving only its stone walls standing. Although the cause was never officially established, it was believed that the fire began in the tower due to careless handling of fire. The altarpiece, two chandeliers, the Holy Communion vessels, and a few other items were rescued. The original floor tiles, handcrafted by local craftsmen, can still be seen today in the central aisle and beneath the gallery.

Yet this was not the end of the church’s story.

When Latvia regained its independence, a new chapter began in Ģipka as well. The Soviet military left the coast, the restricted border zone disappeared, and people once again found the courage to work together. This marked the rebirth of Ģipka Church. One of the driving forces behind this revival was Pauls Rūdolfs Ūpis a teacher, organist, and deeply devoted Christian. Throughout the Soviet era he remained faithful to the Church, serving as an organist in several congregations, including Ģipka until the devastating fire. In 1990, he invited local residents to restore the congregation, and more than one hundred people attended the first gathering.

Thus began the first stage of the church’s restoration. The ruins were cleared, restoration plans were prepared, and the walls were reinforced.

Between 1992 and 1997, the church walls were rebuilt and a new wooden shingle roof was installed. In the summer of 1991, Pastor Juris Rubenis held a memorable open-air service among the ruins, where the congregation united in prayer, believing that one day the church would live again.

In January 1997, Ēriks Sēne was elected chairman of the congregation and tirelessly continued the restoration work. During this period, another meaningful project was completed: a new cross, forged from the rails of the former narrow-gauge railway that once connected Talsi and Roja, was erected. Today this symbolic memorial to fishermen and sailors lost at sea stands in the Garden of Souls.

The second phase of restoration began in 2000, when Valdis and Daina Rande became actively involved. Over the following decade, the congregation raised nearly 100,000 lats in donations, making it possible to restore the church, renovate it, and install its organ. The paintings on the pulpit and altar were created by artist Modris Sapuns, while the church interior was designed by Andris Vītols, an artist from Talsi. The present organ, built in 1910 by H. J. Nelson, was brought from Northern England through the generosity and dedication of Juris Sils and his family.

On 9 October 2010, as the church celebrated its 150th anniversary, the restored church was solemnly reopened. More recently, the Garden of Souls was created at the foot of the church. This memorial garden brings together nearly fifty historic grave crosses recovered from the old cemetery, the oldest dating back to the 1740s. At its centre stands the railway-rail cross, accompanied by a stylised fishing boat commemorating fishermen and sailors who lost their lives at sea. In summer, blue flowers and gently swaying grasses evoke the colours and movement of the nearby Baltic Sea.

Inside the church, visitors can also see a restored metal funeral wreath basin the only restored object of its kind in Latvia. Funeral wreath traditions were especially widespread in Kurzeme and Vidzeme during the nineteenth century, and such basins were once affordable only to wealthier families.

Today, Ģipka Church is not only a place of worship but also an important centre of local culture and community life. It hosts church services, weddings, concerts, and charity events. The church tower also houses a museum exhibition presenting the history of both the congregation and the coastal community.

In the summer of 2022, the church witnessed another historic event when Giacomo Puccini’s opera Suor Angelica was performed here for the first time. It was a powerful reminder that Ģipka Church remains a living place – open to faith, art, and people.

Today, as throughout its history, Ģipka Church stands as a place of peace, authenticity, and light.